March 30, 2013

 If you've come to this page maybe you're asking yourself "what am i doing here?" "why am i reading this?" Well let me tell you that this is my story. It's my journey through the surfing world, and my thoughts. So if you're reading this and that doesn't interest you, let me just tell you this, this is more then just some sport to me, its more then paddling out and catching a  wave, its my safe place and i love every second of it. I love paddling out, waiting for the right wave, meeting the new people. i love the wipe outs, the injuries, the fear and vulnerability. But most of all i love the feeling it gives me. The feeling of freedom. The feeling of not being judged by this crucial world, not having to meet anyone's standards. Where school, and social lives don't matter. The place i can turn to when my inner demons try to get to me, the place i can just feel normal. So if you have this anywhere in your life (which i hope each and every one of you do) hopefully you can relate to my posts on here. For this week I'll leave you guys with these two quotes to think about until next week

• “There are no more committed people on the planet than surfers. We fall down a lot. We turn around, paddle back out, and do it over and over again. Unlike anything else in life, the stoke of surfing is so high that the failures quickly fade from memory." - Gary Sirota 

•  "For those searching for something more than just the norm. We lay it all down, including what others call sanity, for just a few moments on waves larger than life. We do this because we know there is still something greater than all of us. Something that inspires us spiritually. We start going down hill, when we stop taking risks.”-Laird Hamilton 

one last thing, if you guys would like to check out this video of Andy Irons. I promise it is one of the most inspiring videos. Rest in peace Andy.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5u0X3lhBHDY